How do I choose between cuffed and plain hems on trousers?
Answer:
Cuffed hems add weight and importance to the gentleman’s trousers. Their function during movement is to cover the sock and continue the trouser’s crease. Cuffs create a dressier look, so can be reserved for suit pants, except tuxedos.
More casual fabrics, such as twills, poplins, or corduroys can be worn without cuffs. These fabrics do not demand a heavier hem, and are easily weighed down by unnecessary fabric. Clothing that is dress casual or business casual can be worn without cuffs.
Fitting Your Form
April 28, 2010
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Posted in Men's Fashion, Men's Suits
Mass-made clothing is, of necessity, sized for the masses. Dimensions are reduced to the most likely measurements and produced accordingly. While mass-made clothing may fit the greatest number of people, it can create an unappealing presentation for those without an “average” build. Rather than attempt to fit themselves into the average suit, those on the extremes of either height or girth, like anyone who wants options in their personal wardrobes, are best served by custom-fit clothing.
Follow these suit-selection tips according to your build:
For the taller gentleman, double-breasted suits add needed width, balancing out height. The same is true of pleats and cuffs on trousers. Paired with a high-quality cotton dress shirt with a small pattern and a striped tie, the ensemble makes height an asset rather than an inconvenience when sizing clothing.
Those blessed more with girth than height may find a single-breasted suit to be a better choice. This slims down the silhouette while enhancing the vertical. Striped shirts with a solid or patterned tie add length without emphasizing width, to create a pleasing ensemble.
Athletically built gentlemen must create a look that balances a thin waist with broad shoulders. This is accomplished through a slightly tapered jacket to slim the torso, paired with pleated trousers and a striped or solid shirt.
How much of my shirt cuff should show past my coat?
Answer
The sliver of sleeve that peeks out from a suit coat acts as visual punctuation. It gives the arm a definite ending point and creates balance within the ensemble.
Approximately one-quarter to one-half inch of sleeve generally shows past the coat sleeve. Allowing the sleeve to extend farther may make the coat look too short, while showing less sleeve creates the opposite effect. The shirt sleeve generally ends at the wrist bone, with a cuff snug enough to keep the sleeve from sliding on to the hand, yet loose enough to allow freedom of movement.