How much of my shirt cuff should show past my coat?
Answer
The sliver of sleeve that peeks out from a suit coat acts as visual punctuation. It gives the arm a definite ending point and creates balance within the ensemble.
Approximately one-quarter to one-half inch of sleeve generally shows past the coat sleeve. Allowing the sleeve to extend farther may make the coat look too short, while showing less sleeve creates the opposite effect. The shirt sleeve generally ends at the wrist bone, with a cuff snug enough to keep the sleeve from sliding on to the hand, yet loose enough to allow freedom of movement.
Can I wear a striped tie with a striped shirt? What about with a striped suit?
While some would say, “Enough already with the stripes,” if you’re the adventurous type you could pull off a look that works if you follow some simple guidelines. First, when it comes to lining up the stripes, a little goes a long way. Next, keep the color palettes in the same family. Finally, watch the size and scale of the pattern, being certain to vary the scale, like wide with narrow. Wear a wide stripe tie with a narrow-spaced striped shirt or a narrow-spaced striped shirt with wider spaced striped suits. You have to feel comfortable with what you’re wearing, of course, so if stripes-on-stripes isn’t your thing, stick to convention. Dressing well should be a fun form of creative self-expression, so break old habits and be a little brave when it comes to mixing it up.
Some fashion styles call for shorter jackets. What is the right length?
Most ready-made clothing manufacturers assume you wear a long if you’re six feet tall or more. If you’re one of those guys who measure right at six feet-or just over or under-it is difficult to know which length is correct. Your decision has to be based on the cut of the jacket and your own body proportions. If you’re selecting a suit, you have to take into consideration the fit of the trousers as well.
As a tailoring rule, the most flattering jacket length for each individual is that length that gives the wearer the longest leg line and still covers his buttocks. With custom tailoring we like to strike a balance between the upper and lower torso so you don’t look disproportionately long in the legs or appear that you are all upper torso and no legs.
